I still remember stepping off the bus into Zadar’s old town and feeling the particular hush that comes from stone streets shaped by centuries of Adriatic wind and commerce. If you’re planning to visiter Zadar et ses environs, I’ll walk you through what I consider the essential experiences,...
Jul 26, 2026
• by Élise Dupont
Latest News from Hillside Durness Co
I often get asked where to find the freshest limpets and dulse around Durness, how to buy them if you don’t want to forage, what seasonal limits to respect, and simple ways to cook them once you’re back at your cottage. I’ve been clambering over these shores for years and talking to crofters, fishers and rangers, so here’s a practical, responsible guide from my own experience—recipes...
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From the clifftop between Camel Haugh and Enamel Bay, watching seals is one of the quietest, most rewarding ways to feel connected to this coastline. Over the years I’ve learned to read the rocks, the tide, and a pup’s posture the way others read a map. Below I’ve gathered the practical binocular tricks, seasonal cues and behaviour notes that help me identify juvenile seals from the cliff...
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I often get asked where it’s safe and legal to park overnight for a night under the stars near Balnakeil Bay—and just as often I’m asked what the crofters will think if they find you there. Having spent many nights along this coast, I’m careful to follow the rules, keep things low-impact, and to show simple courtesies to the people who live and work here. Below I explain the options for...
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Managing money while traveling in Tanzania taught me lessons I still use on every trip: be flexible, protect cash, and know when to use a card. In this practical guide I share conseils pratiques pour gérer son budget en Tanzanie drawn from months of travel between Dar es Salaam, Arusha, the Kilimanjaro foothills and the islands of Zanzibar. This is a hands-on, street-level companion for planning...
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I’ve always been drawn to places that feel a little out of time, and Myanmar (Burma) is exactly that: gilded temples smeared with sunlight, slow wooden boats on Inle Lake, and towns where street life still moves at walking pace. But traveling there today requires more preparation and circumspection than a postcard photo suggests. Below I share my conseils pratiques pour voyager en Birmanie...
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I still remember the first time I saw the shore at Balnakeil light up like someone had spilled stars across the sand. It was one of those quiet, salt-wind nights when the headland felt completely remote, and the bioluminescent tide made every footstep glow for a heartbeat. Photographing this phenomenon with a phone is absolutely possible — it just takes timing, patience, and a few simple...
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I spent a week testing two lightweight shells on Durness’s cliff tops—walking the Cape Wrath way at dawn, circling Smoo Cave in a stiff sea breeze, and sitting out afternoon clouds on Balnakeil beach—so I could answer a simple question: which lightweight shell jacket actually keeps you warm and comfortable on exposed Scottish cliffs? I focused on two popular choices: a pared-back wind shell...
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I set out from Sango Sands on a bright, blustery morning with a thermos of tea, my camera, and a simple goal: spot grey seals hauled out on rocks and flocks of common eider bobbing in the surf between Sango Sands and Camel Haugh. Over years of walking these shores I’ve refined a half-day route that balances wildlife chances, photography light, and safety—plus a couple of solid fallbacks if...
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I arrived in Madeira with the same curiosity I bring to every remote coastline: eager to hike, to find hidden viewpoints and to move at my own pace—only this time I planned to do it without a car. What followed was a rewarding mixture of rhythm, patience and discovery. If you’re wondering about options de transport à Madère sans voiture, I’ll walk you through the practical choices I...
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Why I chose alternatives: options de transport à Madère sans louer de voitureWhen I first planned my trip to Madeira, I nearly booked a rental car out of habit. Then I remembered the steep, narrow roads and the joy I find in slow travel. I spent a week moving around the island without driving, and that decision shaped everything I saw and felt. If you’re asking how to get around, start with...
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