I still remember the first time I crouched on a rock pool edge at low tide, the wind pushing my hair into my face while a crofter pointed out the difference between a sweet, glossy sugar kelp and a tougher wrack that belongs in a stew. Seaweed foraging feels like a secret handshake with the...
Oct 12, 2026
• by Élise Dupont
Latest News from Hillside Durness Co
I first noticed the arctic terns at Balnakeil on a blustery June morning when the bay was a scatter of silver wings and sharp, piping calls. Since then I’ve come back year after year, learning how to read the machair’s subtle signs, where to sit and watch without causing a stir, and which vantage points give the best view without trampling nesting scrapes. If you’re planning to look for...
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I’ve spent countless days walking windswept ridges and following streams into remote coves, and on many of those trips I’ve reached for a small, familiar foil packet: a purification tablet. They’re lightweight, easy to carry and promise safe water in a pinch. But as useful as they are, I’ve also learned to be cautious—there are real risques liés aux pastilles de purification deau that...
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I love starting a day on the water in the far north — dawn light, glassy sea, and the quiet company of seals slipping between the kelp beds. One of my favourite early-morning outings is a short sea-kayak from Balnakeil across to Enamel Bay to photograph grey seals and the coastline’s dramatic light. Below I’ll walk you through the launch points, tide considerations, kit I always pack,...
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The first time I tried a cliff-to-beach panorama at Camel Haugh I realized there’s a sweet spot between ambition and chaos: I wanted the whole sweep — towering cliffs, the curl of the beach, the sweep of the bay — in a single frame, but my phone’s default panorama kept warping the horizon and disjointing the foreground rocks. After a few failed stitches and a much-improved attempt, I’ve...
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I know the draw of a lone sea stack at first light—the way the water steals the colours from the sky and the cliffs hold their breath. One of my favourite quiet sunrise sessions near Durness is at the Croick sea stack (local crofting name: "Croick" rather than the Croick near Inverness), a dramatic slab of rock standing off a sweep of shingle and grassy cliffs. Below I’ll tell you exactly...
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I’ve lost count of the times I’ve set out for Sango Sands only to find the little stone causeway under a ribbon of sea. Tides here are surprisingly fast; a causeway that looks passable at low tide can be flooded again before you’ve had a chance to explore the north end properly. If you meet a flooded causeway, don’t panic — there are several safe, scenic alternatives that still let you...
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When I first set out to explorer larchipel arctique avec une carte, I expected crisp white maps, neat contour lines and predictable navigation. Instead I discovered that a Svalbard map is a living document: it tells you where polar bears roam, where sea ice retreats, which glaciers are retreating fastest, and which settlements are connected only by boat or snowmobile. Mapping the archipelago is...
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I still remember my first multi-day route: that nervous excitement at the trailhead, my pack slightly too heavy, and the relief of finding a perfect campsite with a view. If you’re reading this, you’re probably thinking about trying your premiers itinéraires GR pour débutants — long-distance footpaths that are both iconic and approachable. I’ve walked many coastal and highland routes...
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I spent three nights camping on Balnakeil beach last spring to find out which lightweight bivvy shelter actually works for an overnight shore camp. I wanted something minimal and fast to pitch between tides and driving wind, but still roomy enough for a sleeping mat, a bit of kit, and a camera I could grab in the night if the aurora flared. Over several trips I tested three popular lightweight...
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I’m partial to days that feel wild and unplanned but are actually carefully stitched together—especially when that day means leaving the car behind. If you want a zero‑car day between Sango Sands and Balnakeil (both jewels on the far north coast), you can absolutely do it with a smart mix of local buses, a short taxi hop, and a few leg‑stretching walks. Below I lay out how I plan those...
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