I’ve lost count of the times I’ve set out for Sango Sands only to find the little stone causeway under a ribbon of sea. Tides here are surprisingly fast; a causeway that looks passable at low tide can be flooded again before you’ve had a chance to explore the north end properly. If you meet a...
Aug 29, 2026
• by Élise Dupont
Latest News from Hillside Durness Co
I spent three nights camping on Balnakeil beach last spring to find out which lightweight bivvy shelter actually works for an overnight shore camp. I wanted something minimal and fast to pitch between tides and driving wind, but still roomy enough for a sleeping mat, a bit of kit, and a camera I could grab in the night if the aurora flared. Over several trips I tested three popular lightweight...
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I’m partial to days that feel wild and unplanned but are actually carefully stitched together—especially when that day means leaving the car behind. If you want a zero‑car day between Sango Sands and Balnakeil (both jewels on the far north coast), you can absolutely do it with a smart mix of local buses, a short taxi hop, and a few leg‑stretching walks. Below I lay out how I plan those...
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I’ve spent more than a few chilly dawns perched on clifftops in Sutherland watching otters work their way through rock pools and seaweed beds below. Photographing them from above—ideally from a discreet clifftop hide—lets you capture intimate behaviours and dramatic seascapes without disturbing these curious animals. Below I share what I’ve learned: the best vantage points, when to go,...
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I still remember the first time I wandered through the narrow lanes around the old ramparts and thought: this is how Corsica begins to tell you its story. If you want to visiter le cœur historique de Porto-Vecchio, you’re in for a delightful mix of salty air, stone alleys, and surprises at every turn. In this guide I walk you through what to see and do, how to move around, and the small...
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I still remember stepping off the bus into Zadar’s old town and feeling the particular hush that comes from stone streets shaped by centuries of Adriatic wind and commerce. If you’re planning to visiter Zadar et ses environs, I’ll walk you through what I consider the essential experiences, practical tips, and lesser-known detours that turn a good trip into a memorable one. I write from the...
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I love a moonlit walk along Balnakeil dunes — the air smells of seaweed and peat, the sand glows pearly under moonlight, and the cliffs stand like silent sentinels. But these walks are best planned carefully. I’ll take you through how I plan my own moonlit beach walk: tide margins, navigation strategies, headlamp settings that work in different conditions, and the practical kit I never leave...
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I love Durness because it feels like the kind of place you can actually arrive at, drop a rucksack, and immediately belong to the landscape. Over the years I’ve learned that you don’t need a car to experience the best of the far north—just a bit of planning, a flexible mindset and the generosity of local transport operators. Below I share how I organise a zero‑car weekend in Durness using...
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I often get asked where to find the freshest limpets and dulse around Durness, how to buy them if you don’t want to forage, what seasonal limits to respect, and simple ways to cook them once you’re back at your cottage. I’ve been clambering over these shores for years and talking to crofters, fishers and rangers, so here’s a practical, responsible guide from my own experience—recipes...
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From the clifftop between Camel Haugh and Enamel Bay, watching seals is one of the quietest, most rewarding ways to feel connected to this coastline. Over the years I’ve learned to read the rocks, the tide, and a pup’s posture the way others read a map. Below I’ve gathered the practical binocular tricks, seasonal cues and behaviour notes that help me identify juvenile seals from the cliff...
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I often get asked where it’s safe and legal to park overnight for a night under the stars near Balnakeil Bay—and just as often I’m asked what the crofters will think if they find you there. Having spent many nights along this coast, I’m careful to follow the rules, keep things low-impact, and to show simple courtesies to the people who live and work here. Below I explain the options for...
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