I love starting a day on the water in the far north — dawn light, glassy sea, and the quiet company of seals slipping between the kelp beds. One of my favourite early-morning outings is a short sea-kayak from Balnakeil across to Enamel Bay to photograph grey seals and the coastline’s dramatic...
Sep 23, 2026
• by Élise Dupont
Latest News from Hillside Durness Co
I’ve lost count of the times I’ve set out for Sango Sands only to find the little stone causeway under a ribbon of sea. Tides here are surprisingly fast; a causeway that looks passable at low tide can be flooded again before you’ve had a chance to explore the north end properly. If you meet a flooded causeway, don’t panic — there are several safe, scenic alternatives that still let you...
Read more...
When I first set out to explorer larchipel arctique avec une carte, I expected crisp white maps, neat contour lines and predictable navigation. Instead I discovered that a Svalbard map is a living document: it tells you where polar bears roam, where sea ice retreats, which glaciers are retreating fastest, and which settlements are connected only by boat or snowmobile. Mapping the archipelago is...
Read more...
I still remember my first multi-day route: that nervous excitement at the trailhead, my pack slightly too heavy, and the relief of finding a perfect campsite with a view. If you’re reading this, you’re probably thinking about trying your premiers itinéraires GR pour débutants — long-distance footpaths that are both iconic and approachable. I’ve walked many coastal and highland routes...
Read more...
I spent three nights camping on Balnakeil beach last spring to find out which lightweight bivvy shelter actually works for an overnight shore camp. I wanted something minimal and fast to pitch between tides and driving wind, but still roomy enough for a sleeping mat, a bit of kit, and a camera I could grab in the night if the aurora flared. Over several trips I tested three popular lightweight...
Read more...
I’m partial to days that feel wild and unplanned but are actually carefully stitched together—especially when that day means leaving the car behind. If you want a zero‑car day between Sango Sands and Balnakeil (both jewels on the far north coast), you can absolutely do it with a smart mix of local buses, a short taxi hop, and a few leg‑stretching walks. Below I lay out how I plan those...
Read more...
I’ve spent more than a few chilly dawns perched on clifftops in Sutherland watching otters work their way through rock pools and seaweed beds below. Photographing them from above—ideally from a discreet clifftop hide—lets you capture intimate behaviours and dramatic seascapes without disturbing these curious animals. Below I share what I’ve learned: the best vantage points, when to go,...
Read more...
I still remember the first time I wandered through the narrow lanes around the old ramparts and thought: this is how Corsica begins to tell you its story. If you want to visiter le cœur historique de Porto-Vecchio, you’re in for a delightful mix of salty air, stone alleys, and surprises at every turn. In this guide I walk you through what to see and do, how to move around, and the small...
Read more...
I still remember stepping off the bus into Zadar’s old town and feeling the particular hush that comes from stone streets shaped by centuries of Adriatic wind and commerce. If you’re planning to visiter Zadar et ses environs, I’ll walk you through what I consider the essential experiences, practical tips, and lesser-known detours that turn a good trip into a memorable one. I write from the...
Read more...
I love a moonlit walk along Balnakeil dunes — the air smells of seaweed and peat, the sand glows pearly under moonlight, and the cliffs stand like silent sentinels. But these walks are best planned carefully. I’ll take you through how I plan my own moonlit beach walk: tide margins, navigation strategies, headlamp settings that work in different conditions, and the practical kit I never leave...
Read more...
I love Durness because it feels like the kind of place you can actually arrive at, drop a rucksack, and immediately belong to the landscape. Over the years I’ve learned that you don’t need a car to experience the best of the far north—just a bit of planning, a flexible mindset and the generosity of local transport operators. Below I share how I organise a zero‑car weekend in Durness using...
Read more...
