I’m partial to days that feel wild and unplanned but are actually carefully stitched together—especially when that day means leaving the car behind. If you want a zero‑car day between Sango Sands and Balnakeil (both jewels on the far north coast), you can absolutely do it with a smart mix of...
I’ve spent more than a few chilly dawns perched on clifftops in Sutherland watching otters work...
I still remember the first time I wandered through the narrow lanes around the old ramparts and...
I still remember stepping off the bus into Zadar’s old town and feeling the particular hush that...
I love a moonlit walk along Balnakeil dunes — the air smells of seaweed and peat, the sand glows...
I love Durness because it feels like the kind of place you can actually arrive at, drop a rucksack,...
I often get asked where to find the freshest limpets and dulse around Durness, how to buy them if...
I still remember stepping off the bus into Zadar’s old town and feeling the particular hush that comes from stone streets shaped by centuries of Adriatic wind and commerce. If you’re planning to visiter Zadar et ses environs, I’ll walk you through what I consider the essential experiences, practical tips, and lesser-known detours that turn a good trip into a memorable one. I write from the...
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I love a moonlit walk along Balnakeil dunes — the air smells of seaweed and peat, the sand glows pearly under moonlight, and the cliffs stand like silent sentinels. But these walks are best planned carefully. I’ll take you through how I plan my own moonlit beach walk: tide margins, navigation strategies, headlamp settings that work in different conditions, and the practical kit I never leave...
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I love Durness because it feels like the kind of place you can actually arrive at, drop a rucksack, and immediately belong to the landscape. Over the years I’ve learned that you don’t need a car to experience the best of the far north—just a bit of planning, a flexible mindset and the generosity of local transport operators. Below I share how I organise a zero‑car weekend in Durness using...
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I often get asked where to find the freshest limpets and dulse around Durness, how to buy them if you don’t want to forage, what seasonal limits to respect, and simple ways to cook them once you’re back at your cottage. I’ve been clambering over these shores for years and talking to crofters, fishers and rangers, so here’s a practical, responsible guide from my own experience—recipes...
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From the clifftop between Camel Haugh and Enamel Bay, watching seals is one of the quietest, most rewarding ways to feel connected to this coastline. Over the years I’ve learned to read the rocks, the tide, and a pup’s posture the way others read a map. Below I’ve gathered the practical binocular tricks, seasonal cues and behaviour notes that help me identify juvenile seals from the cliff...
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I often get asked where it’s safe and legal to park overnight for a night under the stars near Balnakeil Bay—and just as often I’m asked what the crofters will think if they find you there. Having spent many nights along this coast, I’m careful to follow the rules, keep things low-impact, and to show simple courtesies to the people who live and work here. Below I explain the options for...
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Managing money while traveling in Tanzania taught me lessons I still use on every trip: be flexible, protect cash, and know when to use a card. In this practical guide I share conseils pratiques pour gérer son budget en Tanzanie drawn from months of travel between Dar es Salaam, Arusha, the Kilimanjaro foothills and the islands of Zanzibar. This is a hands-on, street-level companion for planning...
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I’ve always been drawn to places that feel a little out of time, and Myanmar (Burma) is exactly that: gilded temples smeared with sunlight, slow wooden boats on Inle Lake, and towns where street life still moves at walking pace. But traveling there today requires more preparation and circumspection than a postcard photo suggests. Below I share my conseils pratiques pour voyager en Birmanie...
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I still remember the first time I saw the shore at Balnakeil light up like someone had spilled stars across the sand. It was one of those quiet, salt-wind nights when the headland felt completely remote, and the bioluminescent tide made every footstep glow for a heartbeat. Photographing this phenomenon with a phone is absolutely possible — it just takes timing, patience, and a few simple...
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I spent a week testing two lightweight shells on Durness’s cliff tops—walking the Cape Wrath way at dawn, circling Smoo Cave in a stiff sea breeze, and sitting out afternoon clouds on Balnakeil beach—so I could answer a simple question: which lightweight shell jacket actually keeps you warm and comfortable on exposed Scottish cliffs? I focused on two popular choices: a pared-back wind shell...
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